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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred names. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This recognition has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant earning such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.